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The Spring Fair is a 12 day exhibition of saries and yardage by the weavers of Bengal at the Aga Khan Hall, 6 Bhagwandas Road, from 27.3.05 to 9.4.05. The exhibition has a collection of cotton saris in traditional weaves. An exquisite collection of “jamdanis”, “butidaars”, “woven borders”, “Kantha skitch: and Balucharis in gossamer fine cloth and silk, they are a veritable feast for the eyes.
The different weaving traditions are given below:
I. Shantipur
“The night blue Shantipur sari is an enemy of modesty”.
The “Shantipuri” saris are named after the village “Shantipur” in Nadia District of West Bengal, which is famous for the “Vaishnava” culture propogated by Sri Gauranga Mahaprabhu. These saris have a powder fine texture and exude a sophistications and subtlety of temperament.
II. Dhonekhali
The Dhonekhali ‘aarong’ was famous mainly for men’s dhoti’s and plain bordered saris. The saris were woven in near opaque white grounds with contrasting borders in red, black, purple, and orange, emphasized by a serrated edge motif. In time, the border was broadened to six or even eight inches, and adorned with a variety of stripes in muga or zari. These broad borders known as ‘Maatha Paar’ or Beluaari paar were often woven in two colours – such as black and red. Having a tighter weave than the “tangail” or “shantipuri”, it is more hardy. Its bold body colours and contrasting borders and absurdly low prices make them very affordable.
III. Tangail
The “Tangail” sari exemplifies most graphically, the travails of the weaving community of the 2 Bengals. “Tangail”, which is a village in what is today known as ‘Bangaladesh’ was the home of the weavers who now reside in Fulia, Dainhat, Samudragarh, Dhatrigram, and Sainthia as a consequence of “Partition”. The traditional tangail borders had a “paddo” or lotus pattern, “pradeep’ or lamp pattern, apart from the popular “aansh paar’ which was common to Shantipur. From the use of a single colour on the border, they began to use 2 to three colours to give it ‘meekari’ effect.
At one level, this sari is a simplification of the “jamdani” technique of Dhaka which has given it the extra-weft ornamentation, which is combined with the original “lata-pata” vine pattern.
These Jamdanis, which are literally “woven dreams” are the most sought after saris today. Very dainty and exquisitely fashioned, each piece at the Spring Fair is an exclusive item.
IV. Silk – Baluchari : Korial : Garad
Today, Mulberry cultivation and cocoon rearing is carried out principally in the districts of Malda, Murshidabad and Birbhum. A hundred years ago however, mulberry silk rearing was a tradition prevalent almost all over Bengal.
Today silk rearings in Maldah is done mainly by the Muslim families, while Murshidabad, its neighbour, continues to be an important silk weaving district.
The Garad
The Garad silk sari consists of plain red borders set against a natural ground, with widely spaced red “kalka” paisley motift scattered diagonally from feet to waist.
The Korial
The Korial lal paar sari is identical to the Garad except that the red of its border is intense and solid. The weaving and wearing of these saris is associated with Durga Puja, and therefore has a seasonal market.
Baluchari
Baluchari was a village on the banks of the Bhagirathi riven in Murshidabad district. What is commonly known as the Baluchar brocade was the culminating achievement of the Bengal Silk sari range. Weavers created independent pattern that came together in a harmonious splendour to create a technical and aesthetic landmark. It was a product of patronage, and today, due to a restricted clientele, has lost its original richness.
UM/Hb
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